Where is the most famous hot spring in Japan, where naked foreigners wade in the mixed-sex "roten" outdoor baths? The facility boasts 4 open-air baths in its vast property, of which 3 are "konyoku" mixed bathing. A Caucasian couple appears. The naked man, with a can of beer in one hand, is already looking tipsy while the woman has herself wrapped in a towel that still exposes her breasts and buttocks. A frequent visitor from Tokyo in his 50s describes the scene. Even the women who come covered in towels — they get naked in no time at all. Two customers from Saitama in their 40s, who said this was their third visit to the onsen, were obviously enjoying the sight. Yoshio Ono, president of Osenkaku, which manages Takaragawa Onsen, explains that there had been many foreign customers from before, such as Philippe Troussier, former coach to the Japanese national soccer team. According to research conducted by an international tour information company, Takaragawa Onsen has been chosen in Spain as the third most popular Japanese tour spot.
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I have changed planes at Narita airport near Tokyo perhaps a dozen times, but somehow, never quite made it out of the airport to actually see Japan — until just a few months ago when I had an opportunity to attend a conference in Kobe. Travel banter from a cocktail party someplace? Somehow, I remember somebody describing a dark hall with wooden planks, and old men groaning as they lowered themselves into the scalding water. Trip Advisor led me to the Kobe suburb of Arima; something akin to an Austrian ski village, but lined with high rise apartment and hotel complexes, it seems that hot water flows out of the mountain here in copious amounts, creating a holiday mecca for those who wish to spend an hour, a day, a weekend soaking in the healing waters. Turns out this is one of the more well known spots in the Japan to hang out with the boys — or hang out with the girls, but not a place where the boys and the girls will hang out together, at least, not while bathing. As I made my way through various trip reviews, I learned that nearly every hotel in this little valley had their own onsen — or hot springs bath — with the incentive of one stop shopping. Beginning with the procurement of three lockers! One to hold your shoes, one where you leave your everyday clothing, and finally, one where you bare all leaving your pajama like robe behind and find your way to the hot mineral baths that have revitalized SO many souls over the centuries. The take away of my exploration is that naked is different here than naked in the western world, and would probably be a good bit different yet had it not been for the influence of the western world. Seems that in the days before WWII, during which Japan had been at least moderately successful in isolating themselves form western influences, nudity was essentially a non-issue.
So once in a while you have to experience the discomfort of the wet clothes, both from rain and sweat…. How about swimming in naturally hot springs — onsens — and then swap to the refreshing water in a waterfall all surrounded by dense subtropical forest? Not only onsens are naturally warm but also naturally rich in different minerals, which is often claimed to have healing and vitalizing forces. At least it is an incredibly pleasant experience to relax in warm water in natural conditions. But here, at Nanadaru Falls, you can experience onsens in relatively untouched state and in absolutely natural surroundings. Though still you should ask permission and pay to the local hotel where you may leave you clothes and other stuff, but probably you should better keep your swimming trunks until you are in the onsen. There are also cave-like onsens, but the highlight of them all is three open-air onsens with different temperature of water from mild warm to hot next to meter high waterfalls!